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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled prominently among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.